Fed up with soaring prices and crowded beaches at the usual summer half-term tourist spots, I decided to try something different last May: an island adventure in Estonia. Saaremaa, the largest of Estonia’s 2,300 islands, was the perfect destination for a school break.
Why Saaremaa?
Saaremaa spans 1,000 square miles, offering a Baltic twist on the beloved family holiday experience. To Estonians, it’s what Cornwall is to the British: a cherished getaway destination where countless childhood memories are made. Though lesser-known for beach holidays, Saaremaa boasts four miles of white sandy beaches and balmy late spring temperatures of around 25°C. This summer, Estonia even reported its warmest sea temperatures in 30 years.
For families, Saaremaa stands out as a haven free from buffet queues and noisy party crowds. Its child-friendly atmosphere is internationally recognised—even UNICEF ranks Estonia among the world’s most family-friendly countries. Nearly every dining establishment on the island features a play area for children, making it a stress-free experience for parents.
Family Dining Highlights
Take the Saaremaa Veski, an old stone windmill-turned restaurant in Kuressaare, the island’s main town. Here, kids can explore a playroom filled with fancy dress gear, toy cars, books, and even a play oven, all while you enjoy your meal. Nearby, the Georg Ots Spa Hotel elevates family hospitality to new heights. We were delighted to find free nappies and wipes in the baby-changing room and thoughtful touches like bibs provided during meals. The hotel’s indoor play area, complete with screaming children happily mingling with spa-goers, was a hit, as was the kids’ menu, which even catered to infants with puréed options.
For meals out, children’s menus typically range from €5 to €8, featuring dishes like pan-fried trout with mash and salad, cheesy pasta, or chicken with veggies—delicious options I’d happily order for myself. Dining at the Kureessaare Kuursaal seafood restaurant also offers an unforgettable setting, with views of the majestic Kuressaare Castle. This best-preserved medieval castle in the Baltics, complete with a moat, turrets, and towering walls, becomes an impromptu playground when the kid’s tire of their meals.
Exploring Saaremaa
After dining, we ventured into Kuressaare Castle for an afternoon of exploration. The towering turrets and ancient walls captivated us, while the kids were thrilled by the (fake) roaring lion in the dungeon. For those visiting in late May or early June, the day’s catch at local restaurants might include garfish, served with homemade pickles and tartare sauce.
Affordable Accommodation
Saaremaa is nicknamed “Spa-rental” for a good reason, and its spa culture extends to affordable accommodations. We stayed in a one-bedroom sea view apartment at the O Seaside Suites and Spa for just £80 a night. The spacious setup included a cot for our toddler and a sofa bed for our five-year-old, while guests enjoyed unlimited access to two pools. During nap time, the spa’s amenities kept our older child entertained.
Although breakfast was extra, the fully equipped kitchen in our apartment allowed for easy self-catering. A roadside supermarket was handy for stocking essentials and preparing for day trips to the unspoiled Mandala Beach. This wild, cafe-free beach made for a serene escape, though bringing mosquito spray and portable blackout blinds for the island’s long summer days (sunrise at 4:30 am, sunset at 10:30 pm) is wise.
Getting There
Travelling to Saaremaa was straightforward. Flights from London to Estonia’s capital, Tallinn, cost £650 for our family of four. From there, a 2.5-hour drive and a €40 return ferry ride brought us to the island. Car hire was just £17 per day, and having a vehicle made exploring Saaremaa’s beaches and sights much more accessible. Alternatively, you can take a short flight from Tallinn to Saaremaa.
Even the return trip was family-friendly. Tallinn Airport features high chairs at security, a play area with a library, and board games to keep little ones entertained.
Final Thoughts
Saaremaa is a hidden gem for families seeking a hassle-free holiday. From its stunning beaches to thoughtful child-friendly touches, it’s a destination that makes travelling with kids a breeze. It was the most accessible family holiday we’ve ever had, and we’ll undoubtedly cherish it for years.
